Lola Greeno
Necklace with blue maireener, white cockle and grey gull shells, 2006
Photographer: Joe Larrarte

In August 2006 after a year of establishing a stable of jewellers, writing computer programs, negotiating legal contracts, liaising with photographers and spending hours writing emails, Rod Jacka and Alice Whish launched Definite Style; an online contemporary jewellery retail store. One year on this article examines some of the issues that have been encountered during this project.

We have kept in our sights our intention to provide a retail opportunity for professional contemporary jewellery makers of hand made Australian product, a niche product for a niche market. Alice Whish

Across the world jewellery is amongst the most successful items sold over the internet with sales of over $1.9 billion per annum registered in 2004 (Jupiter Research). Jacka and Whish saw this as an opportunity to sell the work of Australian contemporary jewellers online. Identifying it as a niche market they felt the internet provided a mechanism to reach prospective national and international buyers. In addition the scale of the work made it ideal for a postal-based business.

Elizabeth Shaw
One dog from a pack, pendant sculpture, 2007
Bronze on linen cord
Photographer: Joe Larrarte

Alice Whish has been interested in the idea that jewellery is (mostly) displayed in showcases, hence mediated or seen through glass before it is sold. When jewellery is purchased in a shop the buyer imagines the work on the body before deciding to try it on and start the purchasing process. The glass computer screen mediates the transaction and the visual size of the jewellery is the same, if not larger. Whish sees that this experience is quite similar to that in a shop.

While Whish manages the stable of jewellers and negotiates contracts, photography and biographies, Jacka has developed the software, e-commerce and database facilities that manage the backend. Jacka also manages the search engine and the website now has one of the highest Google site rankings for contemporary jewellery.

There are many benefits for makers undertaking online retail. Definite Style offers its members considerable local, national and international exposure as well as advertising through print materials, traditional mail outs and an online monthly newsletter. Whish says, "The potential customer sees a range of work in the one location which increases the chances of the jeweller reaching new audiences.

Stephanie Winther
Gold and silver cog and dot ring, 2006
925 silver and 9ct yellow gold
Photographer: Joe Larrarte

A web presence has the added advantage of constant visibility which, along with images of recent work and biographical information, is paramount for the promotion of members to clients and collectors. A further benefit is makers are not required to supply work on consignment. This allows the work to be made to order or in short runs. The process goes like this. Once the customer has paid a 50% deposit the jeweller receives the order. The order is completed and sent to Definite Style. The work is then repackaged and sent to the customer and 14 days later the jeweller is paid.

Having stock sitting in stores on display means they will tarnish and are at risk of damage. With Definite Style people aren't buying something that has potentially changed from the original piece, they get a brand new one made to order.

As I don't have my own website, Definite Style allows potential buyers to view my work from around the world. The biggest benefit is that when my name is entered into a search engine, a link to Definite Style appears. It's so simple and easy. Stephanie Winther

Two main groups of jewellers working with Definite Style have emerged; those wanting to promote and sell their product online, and those who want to have a public presence and promote their profile. The site is ideal for practitioners who do not have their own website or online shopping facilities. Niche jewellery practitioners who make unusual products, use alternate materials or make work that is difficult to market in traditional retail outlets have found an exciting potential in online retail. In particular it is a way of promoting their practice to contemporary collectors.

Nicola Bannerman
Cocoon hoop earrings, 2006
925 silver and brushed gold
Photographer: Colin Bannerman

Definite Style has used a pricing model that differs from the standard craft retail sector. Rather than asking the jeweller to set the retail price an agreement was made on the wholesale price. This provides flexibility in setting retail prices to suit the market without affecting the price paid to the designer. Through their web analytics programs Whish and Jacka can identify products that are constantly visited but not purchased. This information allows the jeweller to see the potential of the product and provides invaluable market research.

The most difficult aspect of managing Definite Style continues to be the cost of advertising and website upgrades to add specialised features. The second most difficult area is high quality photography at affordable prices. Early on, the decision was made to show images on a white background. However, this has proved problematic as many images have been received on backgrounds that range from soft to dark grey, pink, green, blue and orange. Photographing on a white background is difficult and far more difficult for amateurs. To computer manipulate every image is expensive and adds to the overall cost, ultimately for members. The current process is for jewellers to send the work to Definite Style to be photographed. However, other alternatives are being explored including an in-house photographer and a recommended list of photographers which would allow members more flexibility.

Alice Whish
Boronia Pendant, 2006
Fine silver and 925 silver and silk cord
Photographer: Orlando Luminere

As copyright for the use of images for promotion is a key issue Definite Style ensures that agreements with its photographers include an unlimited usage rights clause. Where images are supplied by the jeweller a form is issued that gives Definite Style the rights to use the photographs for the purpose of promoting the jeweller and Definite Style. This has been well received by both the jewellers and photographers.

The success of Definite Style requires commitment from a large stable of makers who can supply a diverse range of unique products on demand. It also requires working via email and phone to respond to quotes and orders as they arrive. The site is available 24/7 exposing jewellers to potential buyers around the clock.

This model of working accentuates the need for constant communication. If circumstances for makers change, for example they go overseas or are out of the studio for a month, this has an immediate impact on supply and demand. Definite Style currently has several new mums amongst its stable of makers. Some have chosen to have their profiles temporarily removed from the site while others have sent their stock to Definite Style who manages their profile until the work is sold.

Definite Style has identified its niche target audience as professional women over 30 who like to make a statement with what they wear. While individuals can access this market through the internet, Whish and Jacka have developed web-based business solutions and marketing strategies that work in combination with printed material, at reasonable costs. In this way they are able to promote their stable globally as well as supply members with their own paper based marketing material such as bookmarks.

Whish and Jacka are committed to selling Australian contemporary jewellery to a niche market and one year on remain dedicated to the support of Contemporary Australian jewellery, in all its forms.

Alice Whish
September 2007
www.definitestyle.com